Along the Danube Gorge

Ladislau Fortress, Decebal, the Cazanes, and Herculane.

This route is perfect for those who want to see the Danube at its narrowest point and then enjoy the cool Cerna Valley. The best months are May–June and September–October; July and August are hot, but you can manage with boats and forest shade. You'll need a car, as public transport between stops is rare. In total you'll drive about 180–200 km, split into short stages: day 1 roughly 60 km, day 2 roughly 90 km, day 3 just around Herculane.

The Danube Gorge is where the river, nearly a kilometer wide in the Pannonian Plain, narrows between mountains and flows for several hundred meters. The road that follows the Romanian bank keeps you by the water the whole time, with viewpoints every few hundred meters and quiet villages in between. We suggest you sleep one night on the Danube bank, at Dubova or Eșelnița, so that early morning you'll find the Cazans almost empty, then head up to Băile Herculane, where the imperial resort awaits you with grand buildings, cliff-side paths and hot springs. Don't turn back towards Poiana Mărului: from Orșova to Herculane it's only about 50 minutes, so you'll always sleep near what you'll see the next day.

Orșova, Mraconia and Decebal's Face. Start in the morning in Orșova, on the Danube embankment. The new town was built after the old settlement was relocated, when the Iron Gates I dam flooded the old town and Ada Kaleh island, so don't expect a historic center. What's worth it, though, is a walk on the embankment and watching the bridge and ferries heading to Serbia, before you set off on the Gorge road. From Orșova, the road west hugs the Danube bank. A few kilometers away, in a quiet cove, at Mraconia Monastery, you'll reach the water's edge, at a complex built in the 2000s on the site of a much older place of worship. You'll need half an hour, in decent clothes. From there, the road climbs to the most photographed spot on the Gorge, Decebal's Face, a 40-meter-high sculpture carved into the rock on the left bank, best seen from the water or from a viewpoint on the national road. The best way to see it up close is by boat, from a pontoon near Eșelnița or Dubova. In the evening you'll stay in Dubova or Eșelnița, two small villages with guesthouses on the water's edge. Have dinner at your guesthouse, with Danube fish, and after sunset stay on the bank: the lights from the Serbian side are clearly visible.

Stops: Ladislau Fortress (Coronini), Belvedere on the Clisura Road, Decebal's Face, Mraconia Monastery, Danube Cliff.

Where to eat: In Orșova or at the guesthouse in Dubova/Eșelnița eat Danube fish: grilled carp, fish soup or salted fish. Ask for a glass of plum brandy too, typical of the area.

If it rains: Rain spoils the views over the Danube, but doesn't spoil Mraconia Monastery, which remains a good place to visit. If it doesn't stop, head to Orșova and have a coffee with a view over the water, then move the Cazans to the next day if the forecast allows.

Cazanele Mari and Mici, then climbing towards Herculane. In the morning head to Cazane, the narrowest section of the Gorge, where the Danube passes between rock walls hundreds of meters high. There are two sectors: Cazanele Mari, with taller wall heights, and Cazanele Mici, with deeper water. The best view is from a boat, on a ride of about an hour, but the viewpoints along the road also offer good views. After Cazane, take the road to Orșova and from there to Băile Herculane, along the Cerna Valley. It's about 50 kilometers, roughly an hour's drive. On the way, as you approach the town, the Cerna Valley narrows between forested slopes and the resort buildings start to appear. In the evening, after check-in, stroll through Piața Hercules and the historic center: the imperial buildings, many in ruins, tell the story of a resort that was famous during the Austro-Hungarian era. The statue of Hercules in the square is the town's landmark.

Stops: Cazanele Dunării, Hercules Square and Historic Center, Vânturătoarea Waterfall.

Where to eat: At Orșova or along the way eat at a local restaurant a tripe soup or grilled meat. In Herculane look for a restaurant with a terrace on Aleea Cernei and ask for pork or river fish dishes.

If it rains: If it rains, boats to Cazane may be cancelled; check with the operator. In that case, head straight to Herculane and spend time at a museum or café, then try Cazane on the way back if the weather improves.

Băile Herculane: Roman Baths, Haiducilor Cave, White Cross. Spend the third day in Băile Herculane, with short trails and places with old names. Start with Aleea Cernei, the promenade along the river, where hot springs flow beside the road. From there you easily reach the Roman Baths, a historic site with traces of baths from Roman times, and then to Grota Haiducilor, a small cave on the slope above the town. In the afternoon climb to Crucea Albă, a viewpoint from where you see the town and the Cerna Valley from above. The path is on short trails, with moderate climbing; wear good footwear, especially if it has rained. The park around the resort offers shade and coolness even in the height of summer. In the evening, if you have time, end with a slow walk on Aleea Cernei, then dinner at a place in the center, before heading home.

Stops: Aleea Cernei, Spa or thermal pool, Haiducilor Cave, Crucea Albă.

Where to eat: In Herculane eat mountain dishes: tochitură, mici, beef tripe soup or grilled trout, at the terraces on Aleea Cernei or in the center.

If it rains: In the rain, skip Crucea Albă and Grota Haiducilor, as the trails become slippery. Stay in the historic center, at Piața Hercules and the Roman Baths, and find a café or warm place for lunch.

For Cazane and Chipul lui Decebal, the best view is from a boat; on weekends and in season book a day in advance.

The Gorge Road (DN 57) is winding and has narrow sections; allow extra time and don't rush.

In Băile Herculane many historic buildings are in ruins; view them from outside and don't enter unsafe areas.

Wear grip-soled footwear for Grota Haiducilor and Crucea Albă, especially in autumn when fallen leaves make the path slippery.

In summer, early morning is best for hiking; afternoons can get very hot, so bring water.

Check the schedule and access to Băile Romane and the monastery before you leave, as they can change.

How many days do I need for Clisura Dunării and Herculane? Three days are enough for a relaxed pace: one day for Orșova, Mraconia and Chipul lui Decebal, one for Cazane and the drive to Herculane, and one for the resort.

Do I need a car? Yes, it's recommended. The distances between stops are short, but public transport is rare, and the viewpoints along the way are best seen by car.

What's the best time to visit? May–June and September–October are most comfortable. Summer is hot, but you can visit in the morning and evening; autumn brings beautiful colors to the forest in Valea Cernei.

Can I see Chipul lui Decebal without a boat? Yes, you can see it from the viewpoints along the Clisura road, but from a boat you get the closest and most complete view.

Are the trails in Herculane difficult? No, they're short with moderate climbing, but can be slippery after rain. Wear proper footwear.