Weekend at Oravița and Anina
The Old Theatre in Oravița, Farmacia Knobloch and the train to Anina, among viaducts.
A weekend for those who want stories of an old town and a train journey through the mountains. The best months are April–October, when the tourist train usually runs and when the forest is beautiful. You'll need a car to reach Oravița and Lake Buhui; between Oravița and Anina you can go by train or by car. Total driving is short: under an hour and a half per day, plus the drive to the area.
At the southern edge of Banat Mountains, near the hills sloping down to the plains, stands Oravița, a small town with buildings that seem larger than the town itself: a theater from 1817, an old pharmacy now a museum, streets lined with bourgeois houses. From here, one of Romania's oldest railway lines departs toward the mountains, climbing to Anina among viaducts and tunnels, through a landscape called the Banat Semmering. Two days are enough for both: one walking through Oravița, the other on rails and in the mining town at the end of the line.
Oravița, the city of theater and pharmacy. Start your morning in the old center of Oravița, while the light is soft and the streets are quiet. The walk on foot from one building to another takes less than an hour, because the town is small, but it's worth stopping to look at the facades, ornaments and inner courtyards. The most important spot is the Old Theater "Mihai Eminescu", built in 1817 and considered one of Romania's oldest theaters. The hall is small, in Italian style, with boxes and balcony; if there's a show on, it's worth catching a performance or event. If not, ask at the entrance if you can visit, as access depends on the program and events. In the afternoon, visit Knobloch Pharmacy, an old pharmacy now a museum, preserved largely with period furniture, old drawers and containers. In the evening, take one last tour through the center, passing by the station too, where tomorrow's train departs, so you know where to park and how early you need to be there. Sleep in Oravița.
Stops: Oravița, City Center, Old Theatre "Mihai Eminescu", Knobloch Pharmacy, Oravița Station.
Where to eat: Look for a restaurant in the town center and ask for Banat dishes: tripe soup, cabbage rolls, beef soup or stew. For dessert, try homemade pastry or cheese pastries, if they have them.
If it rains: Shift focus to indoors: the theater and pharmacy, then a long coffee in the center. If the theater hall is closed, at least see the foyer and the building from outside, then settle in for a warm meal.
The Banat Semmering train to Anina. In the morning, board the Oravița–Anina train, part of the line that climbs toward the mountains among viaducts and tunnels. It's a journey of a few hours, slow, with many curves, with forest and valleys in the windows; that's why it's good to sit on the side with a view and have your camera ready. Check the schedule and tickets beforehand, as in some months the train runs only on certain days. At Anina, you arrive in a mining town that lived for a long time from coal. The Anina Mining Museum shows you the tools, lamps and stories of the miners, and around it you can clearly see how the town grew around the mines. Stay here for about an hour, then go for a meal. In the afternoon, head out of town toward Lake Buhui, a reservoir surrounded by forested hills, good for a quiet walk along the shore and for photos. The train returns in the afternoon to Oravița; you'll see Lake Buhui later by car, on the way home, on the Oravița–Anina–Reșița road. That's the end of the weekend: a day with lots of train, little driving and many views.
Stops: Oravița–Anina Train (Banat's Semmering), Anina Mining Museum, Anina, Mining Town, Buhui Lake.
Where to eat: In Anina look for a guesthouse or local restaurant and order a vegetable soup with sour cream, polenta with cheese and egg, or a pork dish cooked in a pan. Grab something sweet for the road.
If it rains: When it rains, the train and museum are your best bets: the train runs rain or shine, and you'll stay dry in the Mining Museum. Lake Buhui you can save for another time or catch a quick glimpse from the car.
Check the Oravița–Anina train schedule in advance: it runs on certain days and times, and weekend seats fill up fast.
Theater, pharmacy, and museum hours and tickets change; call or check information a day ahead.
The train climbs slowly on the railway line, with many curves: bring something to drink and a light jacket, even in summer.
The drive from the heart of Banatul Montan to Oravița takes a few hours, so plan to arrive Friday evening or Saturday morning.
Is Oravița worth a weekend visit? Yes, if you love small towns with history: the old theater, pharmacy, and town center can be seen in a day, and on the second day you take the train to Anina.
How long does the Oravița–Anina train journey take? A few hours each way, depending on the schedule and train stops. Check the timetable and return time before buying your ticket.
Do I need a car? It helps a lot to reach the area and for Lake Buhui; in Oravița you can get around on foot, and between Oravița and Anina you can take the train.
When is the best time to go? Spring, summer, and fall, when the train runs more often and the forest is beautiful. In winter the schedule and roads are less reliable.