Skiing on Semenic
Semenic's ski runs and evening fun.
The weekend suits those who ski at beginner or intermediate level and want snow in the Southern Carpathians, without the crowds of big resorts. The safest months are December–February, when snow usually holds, but check the slope conditions before you go. You'll need a car, with chains or winter tires in the trunk. The actual driving is short: between Semenic and Văliug it's just a few dozen minutes, and the rest depends on where you're heading home from.
Semenic is Banat's ski mountain: a rounded ridge, with beech and spruce forests on the slopes and runs that suit especially those just learning or skiing for pleasure, not performance. The weekend below is simple: a full day on the snow, evening by the fire, and on the second day you choose between another half day on the slopes and a winter hike to Piatra Goznei Peak. The lakes and gorges the area is known for in summer stay for another time: in winter, the road and snow are the attraction.
A full day on the slopes at Semenic. Head up early in the morning to Semenic Resort, so you catch the slopes while the snow is still firm and before it gets crowded around midday. The slopes here are for beginners and intermediates, so take your time: if you're just starting out, do a few runs on the gentle sections, if you have more experience, alternate between slopes and tackle the longest ones. You can rent equipment on site or from some guesthouses in the area, but on weekends it's better to ask ahead what sizes are still available. Plan regular breaks at the mountain huts for hot tea or mulled wine, because the wind on the ridge cuts more than it looks from below. In the evening head down to your accommodation in Văliug or Crivaia, where many guesthouses have ciubăr. A wooden tub with hot water under the open sky, after a day on skis, is exactly the right ending: ask when booking if the ciubăr is available by appointment and how far in advance you need to book.
Stops: Semenic Resort – Ski Slopes.
Where to eat: On the slopes, at the huts in the resort: tripe soup or vegetable soup, grilled meat rolls, mulled wine. In the evening, at your guesthouse or a local restaurant in Văliug: grilled beef, pork stew with polenta, fried pastries with jam.
If it rains: If the weather turns bad or the snow becomes rain, swap skiing for a relaxing day at the guesthouse: ciubăr, a long meal, card games. In very bad weather, it's better not to go up the mountain.
Another half day on the snow and the drive home. Day two has two options, depending on your energy and how comfortable you are on skis. If you're up for another run, head back up Semenic in the morning and ski until around lunch, with more frequent breaks than yesterday: your muscles are tired, and injuries usually happen on the second day, during the last afternoon run. If you'd rather have peace and quiet instead of the slopes, choose a snowshoe trek to Piatra Goznei Peak. Start early in the morning with waterproof hiking boots, microspikes or light crampons, and dress in layers, and bring a thermos and snacks with you. The snow can be deep and the trail takes longer to cover than in summer, so allow more time than you'd think and don't set out if the fog is thick: pay attention to visibility and daylight hours. After lunch, head home without rushing. Mountain roads can be wet or icy in the morning and evening, so if you have a long drive, leave on time.
Stops: Semenic Resort – Ski Slopes, Piatra Goznei Peak.
Where to eat: A hot lunch at the guesthouse where you stayed or at a cabin in the area: bean soup with smoked meat, cabbage rolls with polenta, and tea with rum for the road.
If it rains: If the weather is bad or the slopes aren't open, have a coffee in Văliug, take a walk down the street, and head home earlier while the road is still good.
Check the lift schedule and slope conditions on the day you're leaving: they depend on snow and weather.
Carry chains or winter tires in your car; the road to Semenic can be icy in the morning and evening.
Rent equipment in advance on weekends, especially if you're in a group.
For a massage, ask your guesthouse to book an appointment before you arrive.
For the trek to Piatra Goznei bring waterproof hiking boots, layered clothing, a thermos, and if you have one, a headlamp.
Lakes and gorges in the area are best seen in summer, and in winter they can be hard to reach: don't include them in this weekend.
Is Semenic suitable for beginners? Yes, the slopes are for beginners and intermediates, so it's a good place for your first runs or relaxed skiing, not for performance.
Where's the best place to stay for this weekend? Close to the slopes: on Semenic or in nearby towns, in Văliug or Crivaia, so you don't waste time on the road.
Can I go without a car? It's much harder. The road to Semenic and between towns is easiest by car, preferably equipped for winter.
Is the trek to Piatra Goznei worth it in winter? Yes, if you have the right gear and good weather. In fog, strong wind, or fresh deep snow, you're better off staying on the slopes.