Autumn in Nera Gorges
Lacul Dracului, Cascadele Beușniței, Ochiul Beiului and Cascada Bigăr, with a night at Sasca Montană.
The weekend suits hikers with moderate fitness, couples and groups of friends, especially in September and October, when the forest is colorful and the waters are calmer. You'll need a car, because the road to Sasca Montană is narrow and public transport is practically non-existent. The drive on day 1 is short (from Sasca Montană to Potoc), and on day two you'll do about 2-3 hours, with Susara and Bigăr on the way home. Day 1 is long, with hiking and hiking boots or sturdy shoes a must.
Cheile Nerei are the wildest gorges in Banat, and in autumn, when the leaves turn color on the limestone walls and the water is crystal clear, the route becomes even more beautiful. This weekend is built around one thing: a full day of walking along the Nera, from Sasca Montană to Lacul Dracului and Ochiul Beiului, then a morning with a hidden waterfall and a detour to Bigăr on the way home.
Through Cheile Nerei to Ochiul Beiului. Start your morning early in Sasca Montană, on the banks of the Nera River, on the trail that climbs into Cheile Nerei. The path runs along the water, through a deciduous forest, and in October the beeches and hornbeams paint the entire slope with color. A place with high limestone walls and an opening to the water awaits you at Lacul Dracului, a spot with deep, dark-green water, hidden between rocks. From Lacul Dracului you continue towards Cascadele Beușniței, located in Cheile Nerei–Beușnița National Park: travertine steps covered with moss, with water flowing over them in several cascades, one after another. It's worth staying longer here, because the autumn light through the leaves makes each turn look different. The path is wet and slippery, so you step carefully on the stones. The last stop on the route is Ochiul Beiului, a small lake with turquoise water, fed by a karst spring, surrounded by greenery. The color of the water is best seen on sunny days, when the light reaches all the way to the bottom. After you rest, you return to Sasca Montană with a transfer arranged in advance with your guesthouse: the entire route is around 20 km one way, too much to do and come back on foot. Short version: park at Potoc and walk only from Ochiul Beiului to Cascadele Beușniței, round trip. Plan a full day, with breaks, and set out with water and food with you, because you won't find anything to buy on the trail.
Stops: Nerei Gorge (trail from Sasca Montană), Devil's Lake, Beușniță Waterfalls, Ochiul Beiului.
Where to eat: In the evening you eat at the guesthouse where you're staying, where you look for tripe soup or lamb soup, stew with polenta, grilled river fish, and for dessert cheese pie or homemade jam. There aren't many restaurants in Sasca Montană, so the safest option is to book your meal in advance at the guesthouse.
If it rains: If it rains heavily, don't go on the trail, because the paths fill with mud and the river can rise. Stay at your accommodation or take a walk through the village, along the Nera banks, and the next day, if the weather clears up, go to Susara.
Cascada Susara and Cascada Bigăr. In the morning, before you leave, go to Cascada Susara, at the edge of Sasca Montană. The road to it is short and the path is not tiring, so you get there quickly, with less effort than the day before. Susara falls over a stone wall, into a forested valley, and in autumn, with yellow leaves all around, the place is very peaceful. After you return to your car, you head towards Cascada Bigăr, on the road home, through the Bozovici area and Valea Minișului. The waterfall partially collapsed in 2021, so it doesn't look like in old photographs anymore, but the place remains beautiful: water flows over rocks covered with moss, in the middle of the forest. It's not a long trail, and on the way back you have time to stop for tea or coffee, on your way home.
Stops: Susara Waterfall, Cascada Bigăr.
Where to eat: You have breakfast at the guesthouse, with homemade products: cheese, bacon, eggs, jam. In Bozovici or on the way you can make a short stop for chicken soup or goulash, if you find something open.
If it rains: If it rains, skip Susara and go straight to Bigăr, where you stay only briefly at the waterfall, or stop for coffee in Bozovici before the drive.
The road to Sasca Montană is narrow and has winding sections; drive slowly, especially early in the morning when there's fog.
Wear hiking boots and bring a waterproof jacket; the trails in Cheile Nerei are damp almost year-round.
Charge your phone and download an offline map, because the signal is weak on the route.
Bring water and food for the whole day; there are no shops or restaurants along the trail.
October and early November are the most beautiful months for colors, but the days are short, so start early.
Check the access conditions to Bigăr before you leave, because the waterfall situation has changed since 2021.
How long does the route through Cheile Nerei take? For Lacul Dracului, Cascadele Beușniței, and Ochiul Beiului, with breaks, you'll need a full day of hiking.
Can I do this weekend without a car? It's very difficult. Sasca Montană and Bigărul are far from towns and there's no suitable public transport, so a car is necessary.
Is Cascada Bigăr still spectacular? After the partial collapse in 2021, the waterfall looked different from old photographs, but the forested setting and water flowing over the rocks are worth the visit.
When is the best time in autumn? From late September to mid-October, when the leaves are colored and the weather is still mild.