Summer at Lake Văliug
Beach, terraces and a cool trip up Semenic.
A weekend perfect for couples, friends or families who want a summer in the mountains, with swimming, terraces and an easy walk. The best months are June–September; in July and August Lake Văliug gets crowded with music on the shore, in June and September it's quieter. You'll need a car. Total driving is about 1 hour and 30 minutes, in short stretches between stops.
On the Văliug Valley, at over 500 metres altitude, summer is 5–8 degrees cooler than in the towns down in the valley. This weekend keeps close together the two lakes on the Bârzava Valley: Văliug, with beach, terraces and cheerful noise, and Gozna, quieter and surrounded by forests. You sleep just one night, by the lake from the first day, so on the second day you set off in the morning straight for the ridge, without long drives.
Lake Văliug: beach, terraces and an evening on the shore. Come to Văliug around lunchtime, after you've dropped your bags at your accommodation. The reservoir on the Bârzava is the place to have fun in summer in the area: on the shore you'll find the beach zone, good water for swimming on hot days, terraces and, on busy weekends, music and parties until evening. If you want quiet, try early morning or the ends of the shore, further from the terraces. In the afternoon you can rent a boat or a pedalo, if they're available on your day (it changes from year to year, ask on the spot). Then take an hour's walk along the water's edge and on the forest paths that start nearby. The air cools down quickly after 6 pm, so bring a light jumper for the evening. In the evening stay at Văliug or go to Crivaia, a quiet village a few kilometres away. You can have dinner on a terrace by the shore, with the sunset over the lake, if you want atmosphere, or in a guesthouse in the village, if you want to get to bed early.
Stops: Văliug Lake, Crivaia.
Where to eat: At the terraces on the shore you'll find grilled meat, meatballs, tripe soup and pancakes. If you get a chance in a village guesthouse, ask for bean soup with smoked meat or paprika stew. Ask what the house has in local produce, because the offer changes.
If it rains: If it rains, head to Reșița, 20–25 minutes' drive away, to a museum or a café, or stay at a covered terrace on the shore and wait for the clouds to pass; summer showers in the area usually pass quickly.
Lake Gozna and hiking on Semenic. Start early in the morning, around 8:30, because in summer temperatures climb even at the peaks, and walking is more pleasant in the cool. The drive to Gozna Lake takes around 20–30 minutes. The lake is quieter than Văliug, surrounded by dense forests, with fishermen and hikers along the shore. You won't find parties here, just peace and the mirror of the water. From Gozna you climb towards Piatra Goznei, a ridge with wide views over the surrounding forests and, on clear days, over the lake. The climb is moderate, so it suits anyone with ordinary fitness; bring water, shoes with good grip and a light jacket. Check the trail and markings at the entrance to the area or with someone from the guesthouse, as markings and access can change. In the afternoon, if you have energy, climb onto the Semenic plateau, in summer season, with no ski runs and no skiers, just open meadows and cool wind. This is the time to sit on the grass, eat what you brought and look at the ridges around you. Then descend and head home, with at most 3–4 hours of driving depending on where you live.
Stops: Gozna Lake, Piatra Goznei Peak, Semenic Plateau (summer walk).
Where to eat: Bring a picnic from a bakery or guesthouse in Văliug (bread, smoked cheese, tomatoes, bacon) and eat it on the shore of Gozna. On the way down, stop at a cabin or guesthouse in the area for vegetable soup, stew or fried pastries, depending on what you find open.
If it rains: If it rains, climbing Piatra Goznei is slippery and visibility is poor, so skip it. Go to Reșița instead, to a museum or café, or just take a short walk along the Gozna shore with a raincoat.
Book accommodation in advance for July and August weekends; Văliug and Crivaia fill up quickly.
On the Văliug shore there's music and parties in summer; if you want a quiet sleep, ask for a room away from the terraces.
Bring warm clothes for evening and morning: at 500–1,400 m altitude, temperature drops a lot after sunset.
For hiking on Piatra Goznei and Semenic you need boots with good soles, water and sun protection.
Summer rains in the mountains can appear suddenly in the second part of the day; climb in the morning and come down by noon.
The schedule and prices for boat rental and terraces change from year to year; ask on the spot.
Do you need a car for this weekend? Yes. The lakes and starting points for the ridges are tens of minutes apart, and public transport is rare and doesn't connect the places well.
Can you swim in Văliug Lake? Yes, in summer there's a beach area on the lake, with terraces and services on the shore. The water warms up in July and August; in June and September it can be cooler.
Is Piatra Goznei difficult for children? The climb is moderate and suitable for children used to mountain walking. Go at their pace and stop often.
Do the ski runs on Semenic operate in summer? No. Summer is just for walking and hiking on the plateau; the runs are for winter.
When is the quietest time for Văliug Lake? In June, September and on weekdays. On July and August weekends it's the busiest.