Sibiu and Mărginimea

Old town, ASTRA Museum, Sibiel and Jina.

This route suits those who want to see a medieval town and, on the same trip, the pastoral villages of Mărginimea Sibiului. It works well year-round: spring and autumn are the most comfortable, summer is greener, winter is quieter and cooler. You'll need a car for days 2 and 3; day 1 is done on foot. In total you'll drive around 150–180 km, with short drives between stops.

Sibiu is one of the few towns in the country where you can leave your car at your accommodation and not need it for a whole day. A few dozen kilometers away, Mărginimea Sibiului preserves a village life that has changed less: houses with porches, sheep taken up to the mountains in summer, cheese made every morning. Three days are enough to see both without rushing.

Sibiu's old town, on foot. Start in Piața Mare, the best place to catch the rhythm of the town. The houses around it have attics with "eyes" that seem to watch you, and the square is surrounded by old buildings: Brukenthal Palace, Council Tower, Roman Catholic Church. If you have time, climb the Council Tower: from up there you understand how Piața Mare, Piața Mică and the Lower Town connect. From Piața Mică you cross the Podul Minciunilor, the country's first cast-iron bridge, and descend to the Lower Town via stairs and narrow streets, past the old fortress walls. In the afternoon you can visit the Brukenthal National Museum, if you're interested in old European art, or simply stroll along Strada Cetății, past the preserved towers of the fortifications. In the evening, Piața Mare comes alive, with terraces and people out for a walk. It's a good time to sit down for a coffee or a glass of wine and watch the lights come on.

Stops: Grand Square, Council Tower, Liars' Bridge, Brukenthal National Museum, Citadel Street and fortification towers.

Where to eat: Try a tripe soup or a platter with cheeses, smoked sausages and pickles at a place in the old center. For dessert look for a papanaș or a sweet cheese pie.

If it rains: Go to the Brukenthal Museum, then to a café in Piața Mică. If you feel like something lighter, pop into the bookshops and craft workshops in the center.

ASTRA Museum and the villages of Sibiel and Gura Râului. In the morning, head to the ASTRA Museum, an open-air museum in Dumbrava Sibiului, a few kilometers from the city center. There are houses, mills, workshops and homesteads brought from all over the country, spread across a large park, so wear comfortable shoes. Take time to explore the water mills area and the houses from Țara Oltului and Mărginime, to prepare yourself for what comes next. In the afternoon, head towards Mărginimea Sibiului. Sibiel is a neat village with aligned houses and a glass icon museum, with thousands of pieces collected by a priest. Then go to Gura Râului, a village with visible pastoral traditions: sheep, cheese, wool, pottery workshops. It's a good place to see how cheese or whey is made, if you find a homestead that welcomes visitors. Return to Sibiu on the same road or with a short detour, depending on the time and weather.

Stops: ASTRA Museum (Museum of Traditional Popular Civilization), Sibiel, Gura Râului.

Where to eat: In Mărginimea Sibiului, look for burduf cheese, whey, fresh cheese, tripe soup, pork stew or polenta with cheese and sour cream, at a guesthouse in the village or at a homestead that serves meals.

If it rains: The ASTRA Museum has buildings where you can take shelter, but there's a lot of walking outside, so bring a rain jacket. The glass icon museum in Sibiel is covered and worth spending more time in on rainy days.

Jina and hill shepherding. The third day is about shepherding. Leave in the morning for Jina, a village set on a hillside, with large homesteads and a history tied to sheep herding. The village has an ethnographic museum and many old houses, and around it you can see the pastures where flocks climb. If you want to understand what transhumance means, it's good to talk with locals, who readily tell stories about the sheep's journey to the mountains and back. In the area you can buy dairy products directly from producers: telemea, burduf, whey, smoked cheese. It's worth taking a few pieces for the road, well wrapped. If time allows, stop in a neighboring village for a short walk down the street. In the afternoon you return to Sibiu, where you can end the trip with a final walk through the center, a souvenir or a coffee. If you have a long drive home, leave early.

Stops: Jina, Ethnographic Museum in Jina.

Where to eat: Eat at a guesthouse in Jina or in neighboring villages: balmuș, polenta with cheese, lamb cooked in a traditional pan or smoked sausages, depending on the season and what you find.

If it rains: Visit the Ethnographic Museum in Jina and then head down to Sibiu earlier, where you can go into a café or a museum. Hill roads can be slippery in the rain, drive carefully.

Museum hours (ASTRA, Brukenthal, Glass Icon Museum in Sibiel, museum in Jina) change depending on the season, check before you leave.

In winter, roads to hill villages may be covered with snow or ice; have appropriate tires and start in the morning.

For the ASTRA Museum you need comfortable shoes and weather-appropriate clothing, there's a lot of walking outside.

If you want to see cheese-making or a sheepfold, let your host know in advance, not all homesteads welcome visitors without prior arrangement.

On weekends and in season, book your meal and accommodation in Sibiu in advance.

Do I need a car for this route? For day 1, no, Sibiu's old town is explored on foot. For days 2 and 3, a car is very useful, as the villages in Mărginime are difficult to connect using only public transport.

When is the best time to go? From May to October is most comfortable, with long days and active villages. Winter works too, but with more care for driving and local opening hours.

Is it suitable for children? Yes, especially the ASTRA Museum and pastoral villages, where children can see animals and workshops. Adjust the pace based on age; day 2 is the longest.

Can I buy cheese directly from shepherds? Yes, in Mărginimea Sibiului you'll find cheeses from local producers, especially in the warm season. Ask at guesthouses or in the village, so you don't buy only from middlemen.

How much driving in total? Approximately 150–180 km over the three days, with short drives between Sibiu and the villages in Mărginime.