Transfăgărășan and Transalpina

Bâlea Lac, Poenari, Corvinilor Castle.

The circuit suits those who want to tick off the country's two great alpine roads without rushing, with stops in Sibiu and Hunedoara. The best months are July–September, and early October works if the weather holds; the Transfăgărășan and Transalpina are generally open between July and October, but dates should be checked each year. You'll need a car, and in total you'll drive approximately 600–700 km, with a maximum of 3–4 hours of driving per day.

Transylvania reads best on the road: in the morning you're in a square with coloured houses, at noon you climb through rocks towards a glacial lake, in the evening you sleep next to walls centuries old. This itinerary starts from Sibiu, climbs the Transfăgărășan to Bâlea Lac, descends towards Hunedoara and ends on the Transalpina, the highest asphalt road in the country. If you travel in winter or early spring, don't rely on it: on both alpine roads, the ridge sections are closed outside summer and early autumn.

Old Sibiu and the ASTRA Museum. Start at Sibiu, in Piața Mare, with a relaxed morning. From the square you reach the Council Tower in a few minutes, then descend towards the Liars' Bridge and Piața Mică. If you climb the tower, you get a good view over the roofs with mansard "eyes". In the afternoon you have a choice: the Brukenthal National Museum, for the art collection in the palace on Piața Mare, or the ASTRA Museum, located in the Dumbrava forest, a few kilometres from the centre. ASTRA is an open-air museum, with homesteads brought from across the country, and requires at least two hours of walking, in comfortable shoes. In the evening return to the old centre: Strada Cetății, with fragments of fortification and towers, is quiet after the time when tour groups leave.

Stops: Grand Square, Council Tower, Liars' Bridge, Brukenthal National Museum, ASTRA Museum (Museum of Traditional Popular Civilization), Citadel Street and fortification towers.

Where to eat: Dinner in the old centre, with tripe soup or Transylvanian stew; look for a place that serves traditional dishes, not just a tourist menu.

If it rains: Spend more time at the Brukenthal National Museum and take a long break at a café in Piața Mică. ASTRA can be visited in light rain too, but bring an umbrella and waterproof footwear.

Transfăgărășan: Poenari Fortress and Bâlea Lake. Set out in the morning from Sibiu heading south on DN7 through Valea Oltului, then on DN7C towards Transfăgărășan. The drive from Sibiu to the base of the climb takes around two hours, but factor in stops along the way. On the southern slope, near Curtea de Argeș, you'll reach Poenari Fortress, Vlad the Impaler's stronghold, perched on a cliff. The climb involves roughly 1,480 steps, so expect a good hour of effort; bring water and take your time. From there the road winds upward past Vidraru Lake, then towards the pass near Bâlea Lake. You can only reach Bâlea Lake if the road is open; typically the ridge section opens in summer and closes in autumn, but dates change year to year—check the road administration website. The glacial lake sits above 2,000 m, and weather can be cold even in mid-summer; bring a jacket. Sleep in the area or head back north towards Sibiu.

Stops: Poenari Fortress, Vidraru Lake, Bâlea Lac.

Where to eat: Along the way, in the Curtea de Argeș area, look for beef tripe soup or grilled meatballs; higher up at Bâlea, you can grab a simple meal at the mountain huts. Pack water and snacks for the climb.

If it rains: If rain or fog covers the ridge, you can only visit Poenari Fortress on days without heavy rain (the stairs are slippery when wet); alternatively, stay in Curtea de Argeș and visit Curtea de Argeș Monastery, then save Bâlea for a clearer day.

Corvin Castle and Dacian Fortresses. On the third day, head down to Hunedoara on the road passing through Deva or Orăștie. From Sibiu it's about two and a half hours to Hunedoara. Corvin Castle in Hunedoara is one of the best-preserved Gothic castles in the country, with bridges, towers, and inner courtyards. Set aside two hours for a visit. If you want somewhere quieter, the Orăștie Mountains hold Sarmizegetusa Regia, the former Dacian capital, at the end of a forest road that can be difficult after rain; check road conditions before heading out. In the evening, head back to Sibiu or stay overnight in the Hunedoara area if you want to start early for Transalpina.

Stops: Corvinilor Castle.

Where to eat: In Hunedoara or Orăștie, look for a place with grilled meat dishes or bean soup in bread; each local spot has its own specialties—ask what's being cooked that day.

If it rains: The castle is worth visiting even in the rain, especially the indoor halls. Avoid the road to Sarmizegetusa Regia if there's been heavy rain—it can become impassable.

Transalpina and a Farewell Walk. Your last day is dedicated to Transalpina (DN67C), the highest asphalt road in the country. Start in the morning from Sibiu towards Sebeș, then climb DN67C towards Pasul Urdele, at over 2,100 m. Like Transfăgărășan, the ridge section is generally open in summer and early autumn, but the exact period varies from year to year; check before you go. Along the way you'll see alpine meadows, mountain huts, and if needed, sheep on the asphalt. Stop at a few viewpoints; the view changes at every turn. Don't expect many services on the route, so fill up your tank and bring supplies. On your way home or back to Sibiu, you can take a farewell stroll through the old town center and pick up cheeses from local producers as an edible souvenir.

Stops: Transalpina (Urdele Pass).

Where to eat: On Transalpina, bring supplies with you; when you return to Sibiu, have one last meal with Transylvanian dishes and buy local cheeses for the road.

If it rains: If fog or rain covers the ridge, the road loses much of its charm and can be dangerous; postpone Transalpina and spend the day in Sibiu, at Brukenthal or ASTRA, if you haven't seen them already.

Transfăgărășan and Transalpina are generally closed in winter and open in summer, usually between July and October; dates vary from year to year, so check before you leave on the road administration's website.

At over 2,000 m, weather changes rapidly: bring a jacket and proper footwear even in the middle of summer.

Fill up before alpine climbs; gas stations are rare on the route.

The road to Sarmizegetusa Regia can be difficult after rain; check its condition before you leave.

Museum and castle hours and prices change by season; confirm them on the spot or on official websites.

When are Transfăgărășan and Transalpina open? Generally in summer and early autumn, usually between July and October, but the exact period varies from year to year and should be checked before you leave.

Do I need a car for this itinerary? Yes, the route involves mountain roads and stops in places that are hard to reach by public transport.

How much driving is there in total? Approximately 600–700 km over four days, with a maximum of 3–4 hours of driving per day.

Can this itinerary be done in winter? Not on Transfăgărășan and Transalpina, whose ridge sections are closed in winter. Sibiu and Hunedoara can be visited anytime.

How long does it take to climb Cetatea Poenari? About an hour, on approximately 1,480 steps, so you'll need water and proper footwear.